Storing Your Car for Winter: 9 Quick Tips

For example, maybe you drive a winter beater to keep your newer car in pristine condition, or you want to save on insurance since you’re working from home more and barely driving. Perhaps you’re not confident driving in icy conditions and want to reduce the risk of an accident. Whatever the reason, shielding your car from the harsh Canadian winter has its advantages – it protects the car from road salt (which causes rust) and extreme cold during the winter months.

What many people fail to realize, though, is that proper winter storage takes a lot more than tossing a sheet over the car and parking it from December to March. From cleaning and detailing to checking fluids and power, there are certain steps you should take when preparing a car for winter storage. Here are nine tips to keep in mind if you’re planning on putting your car in storage this winter.

9 Steps for Winter Car Storage

1. Wash & Clean – Your vehicle should be sparkling clean and completely dry before it’s put in storage. Grab a soapy sponge or hit the car wash to get rid of exterior dirt, dust, road salt, and grime. Make sure to spray the undercarriage as well, since road salt can lead to rust over the winter months if left on the car. Remove any tree sap droplets too, as sap can destroy the clear coat over time. After washing, polish up any chrome and apply a fresh coat of wax to protect the finish. (Feel free to take your car to a detailer if you’re short on time or not the DIY type.)
   
   Read more: 7 Tips For Washing Your Car This Winter
   
   
2. Check Oil – It’s best to get an oil change if you’ve reached the kilometre limit or if your engine oil is dirty. In other words, have the car serviced with fresh oil before storing it for a long period. To check your oil at home, pop the hood and pull the dipstick out when the engine is cold. Clean oil is slightly translucent and amber in colour, while dirty oil is dark and filled with particles. If the oil looks clean and you’re nowhere near the scheduled change interval, you can wait until spring to change it – modern synthetic oils remain stable for up to a year in an idle engine.
   
   
3. Fill Up Gas & Fluids – Head to the gas station and fill the fuel tank nearly full. Afterwards, add a fuel stabilizer to ensure water doesn’t separate from the gasoline. Don’t skip this step – a full tank with stabilizer prevents moisture buildup and protects your fuel system from corrosion. In fact, it keeps the gasoline from deteriorating and causing varnish or gum deposits. A full tank with fuel stabilizer also stops moisture from accumulating and could otherwise cause the fuel tank to rust during winter storage. Typically, gasoline only has a 30–45 day shelf life, so stabilizer will keep it fresh over the winter. While you’re at it, top up your car’s antifreeze (engine coolant), windshield washer fluid, and brake fluid too. When you’re done, get the fluids circulating by taking your car out for a final spin. (Drive for about 10–15 minutes so the stabilized fuel mixes thoroughly in the engine.)
   
   
4. Inflate Tires – Tires can deflate and develop flat spots when not used for extended periods of time. That’s why it’s important to air up your tires to the maximum recommended PSI before stashing the car away for winter. Underinflation (combined with cold temperatures) will increase the chance of flat-spotting on a stored vehicle. Replace or repair any punctured tires now so your vehicle doesn’t wind up kneeling on a flat rim while in storage. For example, parking the vehicle on 2-inch foam board pieces can lessen the chance of flat spots during winter storage. If you have them, you can also consider using jack stands (with a small piece of wood under each stand) to take weight off the tires and suspension for a long storage period.
   
   
5. Take Care of the Battery – The last thing you want is a car that won’t start after being kept in storage for months. Over the winter months an unused battery will slowly lose its charge – if it dies completely in freezing weather, it may freeze and become unusable. To prevent this, either take out the car battery or connect it to a trickle charger (battery maintainer). If you choose to leave it in with a battery charger, pick one designed for long-term storage that has an automatic shutoff feature to avoid overcharging. If you decide to remove the battery entirely, remember to store it in a warm place in your house, as batteries can freeze and crack when left in cold temperatures.
   
   
6. Protect the Interior – Mice and other pests can ruin your car’s interior during winter storage. Ward them off by picking up all food wrappers and vacuuming loose crumbs (even a small candy wrapper can attract critters). It’s also a good idea to put a sock or steel wool ball in the exhaust pipe to prevent small critters from crawling inside. For extra protection, you can set a couple of mouse traps around the stored vehicle (outside of it, never inside) to catch any rodents that wander nearby. Moisture is another threat but can be easily managed by placing boxes of baking soda or silica gel desiccant packets on the floor of your ride to absorb moisture from the air. These will help prevent musty smells and mold. (Remember to remove any exhaust or intake blockages and traps before you drive the car again in spring!)
   
   
7. Put a Cover On – From custom-fit covers to one-size-fits-all, you’ll find a variety of car covers online and at auto parts stores. Whatever you choose, make sure to get a top-quality, well-fitting cover that keeps moisture out but still allows the car to breathe. If you’re parking your car outside, use a cover that’s waterproof and specifically designed for outdoor winter storage. Avoid using cheap plastic tarps – they tend to trap moisture and can scratch your paint. A breathable fabric cover is ideal so that condensation doesn’t get trapped against the car’s body (trapped moisture can cause rust). For classic cars or any prized vehicle, investing in a custom-fit cover is worth it for the best protection.
   
   
8. Pick a Safe Storage Location – The best place to store your car is somewhere dry, secure, and level. If you have a garage or a parking spot in an underground lot, great! If you don’t, look for a storage facility with a concrete or asphalt surface. (Don’t park on gravel, grass, or bare earth – your car can sink into soft ground and be exposed to moisture and contaminants from the soil.) In a garage, block any holes or gaps that could allow critters to enter, and make sure the garage door’s rubber seals are intact to keep out drafts and moisture. If you must park the car outdoors on dirt or gravel, lay a plastic tarp or vapor barrier under the car to minimize moisture coming up from the ground. Your vehicle should rest on a level surface and be left in neutral (for manual transmissions) or Park (for automatics) with the parking brake disengaged. Place wooden blocks or wheel chocks behind the tires if you think your car may roll. (Never set the parking brake during winter storage, as the brake pads or rotors could rust together if left engaged.)
   
   
9. Save on Insurance – You can typically trim your insurance bill since you’re taking your car off the road for the winter. Contact your insurance broker and ask about removing the liability and collision portions of your policy during the winter months. (Since the car isn’t being driven, those coverages might not be needed.) It’s wise to maintain comprehensive coverage so your stored vehicle is still protected against loss or damage due to fire, theft, vandalism, or other unforeseen hazards. This way, you save money but remain covered for events that could happen even while the car is in storage.
   
   

How to Winterize a Car for Storage

“Winterizing” a car for storage means taking steps to preserve the vehicle when it won’t be driven during cold weather. By properly winterizing, you’ll ensure the car remains in top condition and avoid nasty surprises come spring. Knowing how to winterize a car for storage can extend the life of your vehicle and protect it from salt-induced corrosion, battery drain, and ice damage. Whether you’re putting away a classic car or just your daily driver, the goal is to protect all the major components from the winter elements while the car is not in use.

Key steps to winterize your car for storage include:

• Clean the exterior and interior thoroughly: Removing all dirt and road salt and then waxing the paint will prevent rust or paint damage over the winter months. Vacuum the interior and remove any food to avoid pests. Ensure everything is completely dry to prevent mold or mildew.
  
  
• Top off fluids and stabilize the fuel: Change the oil if needed, fill the fuel tank and add a fuel stabilizer (then run the engine for a few minutes to circulate it). Also make sure antifreeze (coolant) is filled to the proper level and strength for the cold. Typically, gasoline begins to go stale after about a month, so a stabilizer is crucial for winter storage.
  
  
• Inflate the tires to recommended pressure: Properly inflated tires (even up to the max PSI) help prevent flat-spotting. You might even slightly overinflate (within safe limits) to account for cold contraction. Some owners also set the car on jack stands or blocks to take weight off the tires.
  
  
• Protect the battery: Disconnect the battery and hook it to a battery charger/maintainer, or store the battery indoors if the garage is unheated. This keeps it from draining and freezing.
  
  
• Guard against pests and moisture: Seal up openings (exhaust, air intakes) with steel wool or plugs, set mouse traps or repellents in the storage area, and place desiccant packs inside the car to absorb moisture. It can help to maintain your car’s rubber weatherstripping too – applying a silicone protectant to door and trunk rubber seals prevents them from freezing or drying out during storage.
  
  
• Use a quality car cover and safe location: As mentioned, a breathable car cover keeps dust and moisture off the car. Store the vehicle in a dry, secure spot – ideally an indoor garage. If outdoors, use the strategies below to protect it. Proper winterization is important; some experts warn that improper storage can be worse for a car than driving it on salt-covered roads all winter, so take these steps seriously.
  
  

By following the above steps, you’ve essentially “winterized” your car for storage. The engine and mechanical components will be protected, the tires and battery will remain healthy, and the interior/exterior will be preserved throughout the winter season. When spring arrives, your car will be ready to roll with minimal fuss.

How to Store a Car Outside for Winter

What if you don’t have access to a garage? Leaving a vehicle – especially a cherished classic – outside through a cold, damp winter can invite rodents and rust if you’re not careful. However, you can still safely store a car outside for the winter by taking extra precautions:

• Invest in a high-quality outdoor car cover: This is your first line of defense. Choose a waterproof all-weather cover that’s designed for outdoor use in winter (it should be breathable to prevent moisture buildup under the cover). Make sure it fits well and use straps or tie-downs so it won’t blow off in the wind. A good cover will also make it easier to brush off snow during winter months and typically has soft inner lining to avoid scratches. Avoid using just a plastic tarp, as it will trap moisture against the paint and can chafe in the wind.
  
  
• Pick your parking spot wisely: If possible, park on a paved driveway or concrete pad rather than dirt or grass. Bare ground holds moisture that can lead to rust. If you must park on an unpaved surface, lay down a tarp or plastic sheet under the car as a moisture barrier. Also, try not to park under trees where snow or ice could fall on the car (or where falling branches and sap could cause damage).
  
  
• Protect against pests and critters: Outdoor storage means mice or other animals might attempt to make a home in your car. Use the tips above: block off the exhaust pipe and any air intake vents with steel wool or mesh, and consider placing mouse traps or natural rodent repellents around the vehicle. Removing any food or nesting materials from the car (like paper or trash) is extra important when storing outside.
  
  
• Remove the battery (or keep it charged): If the car will be sitting in freezing temperatures with no electrical outlet nearby, it’s safest to remove the battery and store it indoors. Extremely cold weather can kill a battery that isn’t maintained. Alternatively, if you have a safe outdoor power solution, you could use a weather-proof battery maintainer. But generally, bringing the battery into a warmer area is easiest.
  
  
• Check on the car periodically: Every few weeks, inspect the car and the cover. Brush off any heavy snow accumulation on the cover (large snow loads can cause stress or tears). Make sure the cover is still secure and no critters have tampered with it. It’s also a good idea to pop the hood once in a while on a mild day to ensure no animals have nested and to ventilate any condensation.
  
  
• Consider a portable shelter: If outdoor storage will be a regular thing, you might invest in a portable garage or car carport. Options range from heavy-duty tent-like garage enclosures to inflatable car bubbles. For instance, products like Carcoon create a weatherproof bubble around the car with circulating air to prevent condensation. Even a collapsible canopy or temporary garage structure can shield your stored vehicle from direct snow and ice. While these require space (and sometimes power) and can be an added expense, they offer extra peace of mind when you have no permanent garage.
  
  

Storing a car outside for winter does take more effort, but with a bit of preparation you can keep your vehicle safe until spring. Think of it as giving your car its own winter coat and safe parking spot until the fair weather returns.

Storing a Car in an Unheated Garage

What if your storage spot is a garage, but not climate-controlled? Storing a car in an unheated garage is generally better than leaving it outside, but you still need to guard against cold temperatures and moisture. Here are some tips for an unheated garage:

• Do all the standard prep: An unheated garage doesn’t eliminate the need for the basic winterization steps. You should still wash and wax the car, top off fluids (with antifreeze at proper strength), inflate the tires, add fuel stabilizer to a full tank, disconnect or charge the battery, and cover the vehicle. Cold weather will be less damaging if the car is clean, lubricated, and fully winterized. The winter storage checklist from earlier sections applies here too.
  
  
• Moisture control is key: Unheated garages can be damp, especially if the concrete floor draws moisture or if there are temperature fluctuations. To absorb moisture and prevent rust, place some desiccant packs or trays of baking soda inside the car as mentioned earlier. It’s also wise to put a plastic sheet or tarp on the garage floor under the car. This acts as a vapor barrier against ground moisture and catches any fluid drips or leaks. If your garage is prone to dampness, you might even crack the garage door or a window occasionally on milder, dry days to get some air circulation – just be sure to close it up after.
  
  
• Rodent-proof the garage: Mice love finding warm places to nest in winter, and an unheated garage can still attract them (it’s drier and safer than outdoors). Seal any gaps or holes in the walls and garage door weatherstripping so rodents can’t squeeze in. You can also sprinkle some rodent repellent or place a few mouse traps around the garage interior as a deterrent. As always, block off the car’s tailpipe and any other openings (air filter intake, etc.) to keep critters from getting into the vehicle. Regularly check the garage for any signs of pests during the storage period.
  
  
• Battery and fuel considerations: In an unheated space, your battery will get cold. It’s a good idea to bring the battery inside or keep it on a battery maintainer even in the garage. This will ensure it stays charged and doesn’t freeze. Also, double-check that your antifreeze can handle the lowest temperatures your area typically sees – an unheated garage can get nearly as cold as outside. A coolant mixture that’s rated for -40°C/F (for example) will protect the engine block from freeze damage. If you haven’t already, you might also lubricate door locks and latches, and apply silicone to rubber seals (door and trunk) to prevent them from freezing shut in case moisture is present.
  
  
• Avoid short start-ups: In cold storage conditions, you might be tempted to start the car once in a while. However, if you’ve prepared the car properly, it’s not necessary to start it during winter storage – short, infrequent idling can actually do more harm than good by creating condensation in the engine and exhaust. The car will be fine sitting all winter without running. If you do choose to fire it up occasionally as a test or to keep things circulating, do it properly: open the garage door fully for ventilation and let the engine run until it reaches full operating temperature (at least 10–15 minutes). This ensures you burn off any moisture. Just remember to remove any covers, plugs, or traps beforehand and replace them afterwards.
  
  

Storing a car in an unheated garage is a common practice – many classic cars hibernate this way every winter. The key is to treat the situation similar to outdoor storage, minus the direct exposure to rain and snow. By controlling the environment (dryness and pests) and keeping up with the vehicle’s needs (battery charge, fluid stability, etc.), your car will come out of the winter months none the worse for wear.

Winter Car Storage FAQs

1. What is the best way to store a car for winter?
   The best way to store a car for winter is to clean it thoroughly, fill the fuel tank with stabilizer, top off all fluids, inflate the tires, disconnect the battery or connect a trickle charger, and park it in a dry, secure location. Use a breathable car cover and take pest-prevention measures.
   
2. Should I disconnect my car battery for winter storage?
   Yes, disconnecting the battery helps prevent it from draining. Alternatively, you can connect it to a battery maintainer or trickle charger to keep it fully charged throughout the winter months.
   
   
3. Can I store my car outside during winter?
   Yes, but it requires extra precautions. Use a weatherproof car cover, park on pavement (not grass or dirt), block entry points to deter rodents, and check on the vehicle periodically. Consider placing the tires on wood or foam to reduce contact with frozen ground.
   
   
4. Do I need to change the oil before winter storage?
   If your oil is dirty or you're near your service interval, change it before storing the car. Clean oil helps protect the engine from corrosion while the car is not in use.
   
   
5. How do I prevent rust when storing a car?
   Wash and dry the car thoroughly before storage, especially removing all traces of road salt. Wax the exterior, store the car in a dry area, and use moisture absorbers inside the cabin. Placing a tarp under the vehicle can help prevent moisture from the ground causing rust.
   
   
6. Should I leave the parking brake engaged during winter storage?
   No, leaving the parking brake engaged can cause the pads or rotors to seize due to rust. Instead, leave the vehicle in gear (manual) or Park (automatic) and use wheel chocks to prevent rolling.
   
   
7. Is it OK to start the car occasionally during winter storage?
   In most cases, it’s better not to. Starting the car without fully warming it up can introduce moisture into the exhaust and engine. Unless you can drive it for at least 15–20 minutes, it's best to leave it off until spring.
   
   
8. What should I put under my tires during winter storage?
   You can place wood planks, foam pads, or carpet under the tires to insulate them from cold concrete or ground. This helps prevent flat-spotting and reduces the risk of rubber degradation.
   
   
9. How full should the fuel tank be for winter storage?
   Fill it nearly to the top to minimize air space, which reduces condensation and protects the fuel tank from rust. Always add a fuel stabilizer after filling the tank.
   
   
10. Can I store a classic car in an unheated garage?
    Yes, as long as you take proper steps to protect it. Use moisture barriers under the car, a breathable cover, desiccants inside, and make sure the garage is sealed against rodents and drafts.